Gannett Peak: A Wild Wyoming Ascent
Sitting in the heart of the wild Wind River Range, the daunting prospect of 57 miles and 14,000’ feet of elevation gain over 3.5 days faced us as we planned to stand atop Wyoming’s highest point, Gannett Peak (13,810’). After years of careful planning, I first decided to attempt summitting this peak in June of 2023. Following a few last-minute cancellations from climbing partners, I ended up attempting to climb Gannett solo and give it the old college try. In an area prone to unpredictable weather, I caught wind that a mid-June blizzard deposited 12-18” in the backcountry and that I should be prepare for 4-season weather conditions. Given its austere location with a trailhead about 30 min outside of the town of Dubois, there was minimal beta on the trail, resulting in planning for all weather contingencies and prepping 5-days of food, mountaineering equipment, ropes, bear-aware gear, and a backcountry ski set up, all neatly stuffed into a 75L pack. I set off from the trailhead, feeling good under 65lb pounds, yet a bit nervous heading into the heart of grizzly country alone.
As the morning progressed and I gained the first pass above the tree line, dark thunderstorms swiftly rolled in across the valley, and I found myself layering with all of my wet-weather gear. I continued to climb up towards the first pass, until I heard the jolt of thunder in the near distance. Knowing that I would have to continue in the exposed high-altitude tundra with my big metal skis on my back, I made the split decision to turn around 8 miles in. Moments later, I begin to hear a faint static electricity begin above my head, and the hair on my neck start to rise, encouraging me to pick up my pace and hurry back towards tree line. After months of planning and preparation to get to this point, I made a gut-wrenching call to follow my intuition from the weather and return back to the car, ending a 2023 attempt 16 miles later.
Fast forward a year later, and determined to reach the summit, a close buddy and I planned a late-season ascent via the remote and stunning Glacier Trail approach to the Gooseneck Pinnacle.
Setting off from the trailhead (around 7,800 feet) on a crisp August morning, we quickly gained elevation through a mix of arid terrain and winding switchbacks, eventually reaching Arrow Pass (approximately 10,800 feet, and the area that I had turned around the previous year). A brief morning shower gave way to brilliant blue skies as we continued our trek, descending through the open expanse of Burro Flats. We pressed on past the inviting waters of Phillips and Double Lakes, finally establishing our first camp near the tranquil shores of Star Lake (around 10,250 feet) after a rewarding 12-mile day. Sitting near the lake and reflecting on the day’s trek, we only ran into 2 people and were excited for the more remote portions of the trail in the days to come.
Day two involved a 14-mile hike through varied landscapes. We descended into a valley where the trail meandered alongside a series of the pristine Dinwoody Creek and Gannett Creek. Around eight miles into the day, we were treated to our first awe-inspiring view of Gannett’s imposing summit, where at the end of a steep, Alp-like amphitheater stood a prominent glacier leading to the peak. After carefully navigating numerous glacial runoff streams, often utilizing established log crossings, we ascended the southern valley into the Dinwoody Basin. Amongst a granite boulder field, our chosen campsite near Tarns Camp (at roughly 10,800 feet) offered a spectacular panorama of rugged granite faces, the imposing route for the following day clearly visible above.
Summit day commenced in the pre-dawn darkness, our headlamps illuminating the way as we navigated the initial boulder field. After several hours of careful footing, we reached the base of the Gooseneck Pinnacle. As the first light painted the eastern sky, we secured our crampons and roped up to begin our traverse across the glacier, heading towards the bergschrund. The overnight freeze had created seemingly stable conditions, and we cautiously crossed a firm snow bridge across the dark opening of the glacier.
However, the conditions on the steep face beyond the bergschrund presented a significant challenge. A combination of the previous weeks’ rain and a subsequent warm spell had created a treacherous layer of ice across the majority of the slope. Our crampons struggled to find purchase on the slick, unforgiving surface. This led to a truly intense moment as we faced a sustained 45-degree incline of solid ice feeding directly into a pit of jagged ice in the bergschrund.
Each step required laser-focused precision, our ice axes becoming our primary anchors as me cross sloped to a rocky out feature. We meticulously established belay anchors, moving one climber at a time, the sharp crunch of our crampons against the ice echoing in the otherwise silent morning mountain air. It was a powerful reminder of the raw, untamed nature of these high-altitude environments.
Finally, after a sustained effort, we reached a section of class 3/4 rock that was thankfully free of ice, allowing us to scramble to the top of the ridge. From there, the remaining ascent to the summit was largely snow-free. We finally made it to the rewarding peak at around 845am. The views from the top were nothing short of breathtaking. The vastness of the Wind River Range stretched out before us, a tapestry of rugged peaks and pristine wilderness.
After a brief pbj and soaking up the awe of being on top of Wyoming, the realization that we still had 26+ miles of navigating difficult terrain reminded us to stay sharp and alert. The descent down the Dinwoody Glacier proved to be just as demanding as the ascent, with the variable snow and icy conditions requiring careful navigation. We opted to utilize a series of rappels, strategically placing ice screws and webbing anchors to descend the icy face safely. Loose rock paired with thinning ice offered little bite from the crampons, and we had to combine a mix of rock and ice climbing to navigate down this technical section of the trail. This process was painfully slow, and we ended up taking about 2.5 hours to navigate a 300’ section of trail, choosing safety over speed.
Reaching the bergschrund once more, now softened by the warmer temperatures, we had to remain mentally focused and cautious of our footing. After ~4 hours since summitting, we were back to solid rock and could finally remove the crampons and rope. We eventually picked our way through boulder fields on the way down and made it back to Tarns Camp by mid-afternoon, a powerful mix of exhaustion and elation coursing through us. After a quick break and dipping in the cold mountain stream, we packed up and began our ten-mile hike out under the fading light. The summit day totaled 22+ miles, and by the time we laid down in our sleeping bags well in the night’s darkness, we were well-ready for the anticipated night’s rest.
We opted to cut out a fourth day of hiking and decided to cover the remaining 16 miles back to the trailhead determined at the thought of having a hot meal back in town. With the potential for afternoon thunderstorms as additional motivation, we maintained a steady pace, our tired legs carrying us over the all-familiar Arrow Pass for the final time. By 2:30 PM, the familiar sight of our vehicle greeted us, marking the end of an unforgettable journey. The adventure’s ended in 57 miles of only encountering 5 other hikers, our minds filled with unforgettable landscapes, and most importantly, no grizzlies!
Gannett Peak is an adventure that embodies the raw beauty and demanding nature of the Wyoming wilderness. It requires careful planning, appropriate gear (including those essential crampons!), and a healthy respect for the mountain’s challenges. The reward, however, is an experience that will stay with you long after the last step, offering stunning vistas and a profound connection to the wild heart of the Rockies. For those seeking a challenging and inspiring climb in a truly isolated and beautiful setting, Gannett Peak await.
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