Talk Story with Laura and Ralph

HTMC Talk Story #17
April 17, 2023

The Essential QuestionsCurrent favorite hike on O‘ahu

Laura-Probably Maikiki/Tantalus/Nu‘uanu area, cause I’ve lived here for many years and the trails are so accessible, pretty well maintained because of usage, and area is so jungle-y, green, and shady. Who doesn’t love the bamboo forest, its so cool.  I either hike entire Makiki Loop or partial Makiki Loop (hogsback) once a week with Karen Liliker (and sometimes others), usually pau hana Friday. Great to get out to the woods after working all day and good workout, right near where I live, perfect!

Ralph-This is a difficult question, as there are many great hikes here and they don’t all need a super-vista at the end, like Kokohead Crater we hike on New Year’s day (death-defying arch, rainbows, whales anyone?).  How about the Stairway to Heaven?  However, I think my favorite hike is Ka‘aumakua on the windward side. This begins in lowland valleys, and soon encounters an opening in the wondrous water ditch/tunnel system built here in the early 1900’s. Soon afterwards you’re hiking on a stone road, not a path, deteriorating due to no available care but quite an achievement. Then you begin slowly ascending the curving inner walls of a large caldera with fantastic views all along the way. Epic. Finally, this trail meets up with the Ko‘olau Summit Trail, and it’s a short scramble up a grassy hill to the summit overlooking the windward coast to the north, and the expansive mountain range making up the Ko‘olau’s to the other 3 points on the compass. While some summit views may seem more fantastic seeing colorful blue bays with islands in them, this trail seems to have it all for me; man and nature made this one. Sadly, this is just one of many that now has access issues. So glad I got to hike it then.

Favorite hiking snack/food

Laura-Li hing mui powder on any kine fruit

Ralph-Olives or pickles!  Yep, no bird food for me unless I?m on a multi-day backpack!  Tasty and has some vinegar base to it to help with cramps.

Favorite book/movie about hiking

Laura-The book, “A Walk in the Woods” was hilarious, and the movie was okay, too.

Ralph-“Touching the Void”  The first part is more about climbing, but the guy who was left for dead had one hell of a hike to get back down! 

When did you first start hiking and why do you continue to hike?

Laura-Born and raised on Kaua‘i, my extended family owned a house in Koke‘e State Park, so grew up hiking with my family from the get go.

Ralph-I was 3 when I was taken on a trip in Mill Creek Park (actually just across the street from where I grew up). The neighborhood kids (oldest was 16) brought a bunch of us up to the Old Mill at Lanterman’s Falls which was about 1-1/2 miles distance each way. I remember this as an all-day trek of epic proportions at the time, although it probably only lasted 3 hours. Once I turned 4, I was allowed to venture into the park at my leisure, exploring, canoeing, fishing, and just having fun.  At 13, I was camping overnight, and in college, I learned to backpack. Once I got the keys to the car, I wasn’t home much on the weekends.

Do you remember when you joined the club and why?

Laura– Probably joined around 1998. I come from an outdoorsy family and grew up hiking.  Since moving to O‘ahu from Kaua‘i to attend UH and deciding to live on this island, eventually joining HTMC was almost a foregone conclusion. My parents met in the club, so I’m a 2nd generation member (Helen Gentry and Dick Coffman). Grew up hearing all about Hawaiian Trail and Mountain Club.

After graduating from UH Manoa, got married, and worked 2 jobs for a bunch of years.  In my early 30’s, everything changed. Got divorced, moved to a small, cheap apartment and pared down to working one full time job. All I wanted to do was meet people, get outdoors, tramp around the island, camp, travel, and have FUN!

First joined up with Sierra Club to get my feet wet, but eventually moved on to HTMC.

Ralph– I most likely started paying annual dues in 1998 and got a lifetime membership around 2000. However, I started hiking with the club on the second full day I reached Hawai‘i in 1995. I was expecting scuba diving to become my go-to sport when I was flying over for the first time, but after picking up some local weekly papers on my first circle-island drive on Saturday, I felt that the 12mi hike up Manana should be a piece of cake for me on Sunday. It kicked my butt! (Note to self; never eat 17 strawberry guavas when you’re dehydrated!) Therefore, the challenge was made.

I just hiked most Sundays for about 1-1/2 years, and was actually surprised to learn that these hikes were recycled year after year, yearning for some new experience every week. I complained to Joyce Tomlinson (nee Oka) one day while carpooling to the Wai‘anae Mt. Ka‘ala trailhead and added that I was disappointed this club wasn’t doing more campouts, backpacks, and neighbor island hiking. She surreptitiously used this opportunity to trick me into working with the Trail Maintenance crew, of which her boyfriend, Grant, was heavily involved in (and they needed help). So, in 1997 I began to clear trails; I was given a big machete and told to go clear.

I didn’t know anyone in that crew; Grant was new to me, Mabel as well, but I was approached on that first day by a younger lady who uttered that oh-so-famous line: “Hi, I’m Carole Moon! What’s your name?” I then accompanied them along trail clearings for almost 18 years very religiously. I met lots of great folks and gained a new, local mom, Mabel, who scolded me regularly for whatever hijinks I caused.

I’ve met many great folks who cleared trails; the tireless Thomas Yoza, the super smart (and tireless) Kenji Suzuki, Dayle Turner and Pat Rorie creating the Superhikes, the infamous John Hall….so many more to bring up, but one woman who proved to have smarts as well as being one of the best hikers was embodied in this littlest hiker body in our troop, Charlotte Yamane. How she fits her giant heart into her little body, I’ll never know.

Can you think of one memorable HTMC experience that you would like to share?

Laura-Years and years ago, was assigned to coordinate a hike that did not have a scheduled trail clearing. No big deal, some of the easier hikes that don’t need much clearing are not scheduled for the clearing crew.  So a week or two before the hike, Ralph and I went out to scout, mark and lightly clear this trail, as needed. Turns out the trail was super overgrown! I was so pissed, couldn’t believe they didn’t schedule this hike for a group clearing, as it needed tons of work!

We worked all day and then it got dark so fast, we couldn’t find the rest of trail to get out, although we were close. Ralph sat down and decided to stay right along the side of the trail for the evening and make it out at first light, but I was like no way, we could hear the cars passing along the hwy just 70 meters away. We tried going straight to the highway, but had to go through a small fenced ranch which had horses penned up. When we jumped the gate, we spooked the horses, which ran wildly around in total darkness. I think that’s when we retreated.  I think at that time, our night vision was improving just enough that we tried to exit trail one last time, and slowly made way out to the road.

I was gearing up to give a piece of my mind to the hike committee for their oversight, but later upon further research, realized I was on the wrong trail. I got the name mixed up with a different trail. The trail we cleared was not my assigned hike! Dang!

Ralph-Well, I’ve got a LOT of experiences with Grant Oka, but can’t share any of those!  However, I remember one hike in the Waiahole area about 12 years ago where we had a peaceful lunch in an ironwood grove, then it began to rain as we left the lunch spot. Light rain quickly turned into heavy rain, then into one of the heaviest downpours I’ve experienced here. We reached the (normally dry) stream crossing in a few minutes and crossed while there were only puddles forming. As we reached the other side and looked down, Carole and Myrtle were beginning to cross. I warned them to cross quickly as I knew the water was going to rise. They saw it get over their toes and began to rush (at a snail’s pace) across the 70’ path to the climb-out point; Carole falling because she couldn’t hike and rush at the same time! Once they reached the high ground, we watched the water grow to ankle depth, and begin rapidly flowing downstream. Now we see Junebug and Connie walking down to the normal spot to enter this streambed, and we see some of the edge calve off into the fast moving stream. I knew neither gal was a swimmer, so after I had a few choice words with God, I yelled for them to wait for me.  I took off my pack and spotted a boulder in the middle of the stream where I could position myself so that I could help them across.

When I got into the water, the depth was about mid-calf and it was moving too rapidly to simply walk through. I pinned myself against the boulder with the water pushing me against it, and reached out for the first gal. As she tried to step to the bottom of the stream, both feet were swept downstream, but I had her hands. I floated her to my left and was surprised to see Larry Oswald, strong as an oak tree, standing there ready to help continue this floundering hiker towards the shore. I don’t know how I would have done it alone, and I didn’t realize any others had come down to the stream to help me. Rich Tanaka, a new hiker, also helped the gals at the shoreline that day. Anyway, we were able to get these gals to the other side, quite a bit wetter and dragged through the white water, but safe. The water was now up to my knees, and I now heard what sounded like bowling balls colliding under the water (rocks). We were lucky enough to stop any more hikers from crossing this stream, turning them around before they could try. Exciting times. And this was a small stream, always being dry in past hikes.

Why is HTMC important to you?  What is your extent of involvement with HTMC over the years?

Laura-Since my parents met in the club, I guess I wouldn’t exist with it!  The long and interesting history of the club. Grew up hearing stories and adventures of Hawaiian Trail and Mountain Club from my mother who was a member in the 1950’s.  Talked about old timers from her day like Dick Davis, Robert Wenkam, Randy Burgess and Thelma Greig.

Hanging out with like-minded people who love being out there in the wild, experiencing natural beauty and calm, challenging your fitness, getting dirty, and having a good time!

Served on the Board of Directors on and off for a bunch of years, been coordinating hikes since 2003, and have been the Club Accountant since 2000.  I’m a slacker now, but was a dedicated trail clearer for many years!

Ralph-Well, to begin, it safely opens up the hikes on O‘ahu (and more) to me. When I started, I wouldn’t have known where to go, and I’ve tried following the directions in hiking books, just to get lost quickly. To this day I dislike hiking alone, so the club solved these issues.

Next, it brought a camaraderie to the island. I came here with my family, but other than a few folks from work (whom I didn’t deal with after work), we knew no one. I gained a new family, especially once I joined up with the Trail Clearing gang.  That TC gang gave me a sense of giving back to the community. Although it was great getting some of Mabels’ baked goods every Sunday, it was also nice to hear that ‘Thank You’ when passing other hikers on the trail once they saw what you were doing.

I’ve served on the Board of Directors for over 10 years, still accepting PR calls from news agencies. I’m currently the President of the Luciano Pena Memorial Clubhouse.

Where have you hiked outside of Hawai‘i?

Laura-Just got back from an awesome tramping safari with our sister hiking club, Auckland Tramping Club of New Zealand! We spent 2 and a half weeks on South Island hiking and sight-seeing in their beautiful country on a superb, exciting and well planned adventure. They are wonderful hosts sensational hikers and good fun folks. Nothing like riding around in their luxurious big blue tramping bus!

Trips outside of Hawai‘i with HTMC members include the Wonderland Trail around Mt. Rainier, Yosemite and Mt Whitney, the Haute Route in Europe, (starts in France and ends up in Switzerland), and trekking in Nepal to Everest Base Camp.  

Done a lot of day hiking in the Pacific Northwest and Southwest US, as well.

Ralph–As Laura stated, we’ve just come back from an awesome New Zealand trip with the Auckland Tramping Group. I did help set up another New Zealand trip back in 2010 with 8 other members, where we rented RV’s and drove over quite a bit of the South Island, hiking just about every day, including a 3-night trip on the Kepler Track.

I went with Grant and Rueben Mateo the first time to the Wonderland Trail, circumnavigating around Mt.Rainier, and Grant and I were forced to bring a larger group with us the following year.  One epic adventure was hiking in Nepal with 7 others; 3 of us reaching Everest Base Camp.  We’ve done many hikes in Yosemite to train for the run up to Mt. Whitney in the Sierras.  We’ve also hiked the Haute Route in Switzerland, with a day hike coming down off of Mt. Blanc.  Add several day hikes in Italy.

Without the club friends, I’ve done some hiking in Czech Republic and Slovakia (High Tatry’s) and Spain.  As well, I’ve done lots of other hikes in the Sierras as well as in the Allegheny’s prior to joining HTMC.

What do you bring along when you go on a hike?

Laura-Lots of water WITH electrolytes. I haven’t hiked with just plain water for over 12 years or more. I used to get low grade headaches almost every time I hiked significantly (time or distance), but once I started using electrolyte powder, no mo’ headaches after dat! And way more lasting power physically.

Ralph–Plenty of water (3 liters in my hydration bag), and usually another liter of Gatorade/Propel or some other electrolyte. If it’s a hard or long hike, I try to down ½ liter of electrolyte before I start hiking. I carry a flashlight, my phone, a folded-up emergency foil blanket, and lunch. I don’t normally bring a jacket, unless it’s a nasty day to start with and I know I’ll be hiking on exposed/windy areas for long periods of time. I just dislike getting wet inside of a rain jacket. First aid kit, a carabiner and about 75’ of webbing.  Most hikes I’ll take my spikes with me. Oh, yeah, toilet paper! 

Do you have concerns about the future of hiking in Hawai‘i?

Laura-Of course! Same old issue, beach/ocean access is protected like Fort Knox, but not so to get into the mountains. I get it because the volume of beach/ocean lovers far out number hikers, but still the balance is off. Other countries have done a better job at allowing hiking access thru law and legislation, so we could learn from them. Our culture is sue-happy, and no matter what tragedy takes place, no matter what the circumstances are, someone or something (with money) HAS to be responsible and sued. NOT!

Ralph–The silent hypocrisy of this state’s push towards hiking tourism is deafening. On the TV’s in all hotels and on several airline’s monitors you’ll see wonderful videos taken while on trails, overlooking fantastic vistas that you can only reach by trails, wonderful waterfalls that you can only get to by trails, but the state puts next to nothing in actually maintaining trails, or fighting for access rights. It’s sickening. When we see the level of trail maintenance, the clear signage and parking areas for trails, the system (and quality) of mountain huts in other countries, it shames me to discuss Hawaiian trails to other experienced hikers from abroad. We lose trail access every year because the state won’t enforce/demand that people be responsible for their actions. The national parks don’t have these problems. The state needs to stand behind their existing laws, and grow a backbone.

Is there anything else that you would like to share with HTMC members?

Ralph–Don’t be afraid to step up and volunteer for some position in the club. Yes, it means volunteering some of your time, but it all has rewards, and it expands your list of friends/family here. New opportunities will come! If it weren’t for the club, I’d never have been to so many different countries, exploring them and learning their cultures. I’ve even taken a group of club hikers on a river cruise up the Danube River.  Not too much hiking, but a fun experience with great friends that I hope to continue.

I’m very lucky to have been able to join these friends on all the outer islands, and to lands so far away.  The Trail Clearers’ annual trips to the outer islands opened up the islands to me far more than a tourist could experience them. 

I’m actually temporarily working in Texas right now, but In about 2 years, I’ll be retiring to Volcano Village, where I hope to continue hiking and exploring. My last home will have a big park just across the street from where I live, just like where I grew up back in Ohio…

I’ve travelled a lot over 14 years before coming to Hawai‘i for my work. There have been some places I would have liked to settle down in, but work kept moving me. I think to a large part, the HTMC got me involved in so many things beyond simply hiking, and because it became a second family to me, I’ve decided long ago to stop moving and make Hawai‘i my home, including retiring on the Big Island, where I hope to discover new trails, waterfalls, and more.

Laura–My self-proclaimed claim to fame is that I’ve coordinated the hike with the most participants and the hike with the least participants.  The highest count I can remember when coordinating the Koko Crater New Years Day hike is over 140.

Years ago I coordinated a hike on a “dual” hike day, where 2 different hikes were being offered on the same day from the same trailhead, obviously with two different coordinators. One hike was a harder, more strenuous hike and the other was an easier tramp. I coordinated the easier tramp, assisted by Fred Boll, and we had ONE participant. The rest of the crowd went on the harder hike.

HTMC has been a HUGE part of my life, and most of my dearest and closest friends are club members. I love to explore, adventure and do conservation work in natural areas wherever I can in Hawai‘i and beyond, and the great thing about a lot of hikers and our club members is they share the same passion for traveling to new places. Countless travel and hiking memories behind me, and many, many more to come.

Also, a side note, I met my life partner, the Italian Stallion, in the club (otherwise known as Ralph Valentino). Nice bonus.